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Important:.. the information presented here is for the use of a qualified, experienced technician. Without the background knowledge which comes with training, you risk doing more damage than good to the copier & also risk your own safety.
If you are not willing to take 100% responsibility for your actions, do not use the information posted here. Thank you. Read our Conditions of Use for more information

1012 style
RECONDITIONING PARTS
1012 style
TECH INFO SHEETS
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XEROX Ò 1012, 5011, 5012/14
Cartridge Reconditioning Instructions


All model #'s are trademarks of Xerox® Corporation

5012 COPY CARTRIDGE

INTRODUCTION:


The Xerox 1012 cartridge is one of the simplest cartridges to recondition. All that is involved is a two step disassembly, thorough cleaning, and reassembly.
The 5012/14 cartridge is nearly identical in procedure except for an extra step to replace the connector on the back of the cartridge.
As for the 5011; it is not interchangeable with the 5012 but requires similar treatment.
Any differences in procedure for the 5012/14 or 5011 I have noted at the end of each step (just follow the asterisk). Note that despite the color difference in the drums, all of these drums are interchangeable.
Also, it is possible to turn a 1012, 5012/14, or 5011 cartridge into either a 5012/14 or a 5011 (check out step #6b in the Procedure)
At times you may run up against an older type of cartridge. Where practical I have included notes on some of the older varieties in a lighter text.
It's not likely that you'll want to do this procedure too close to your computer so I suggest printing this web page and then going to the Illustration page and printing that too.

SECTION I: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES

Tools you’ll need:

  • Flat-Head Screwdriver (small)
  • Torx-Head Screwdriver (T10 torx)
  • Technician Vacuum Cleaner with a toner rated filter
  • Soldering Iron (for 5012/14 or 5011 only)
Supplies you may need:
  • Starter Powder (dusting pouch)
  • Yellow Dust Cloths
  • White Polishing Sponge (optional)
  • Drum-Coat Polish (optional)
Replacement components which you may need:
  • Replacement Drum
  • Replacement Cleaning Blade (most are "New style" blades, but a rare "old style" blade could turn up in a cartridge)
  • Replacement Connector (for 5012/14 or 5011)

New style vs. Old style Cleaning Blades:
How to receognize the two versions...

SECTION II: PROCEDURE

1.) First check the drum for flaws. Turn the drum counter-clockwise when you are looking at the geared rear end. Look for scuff marks, scratches, or discoloration. Fingerprints and some minor scuff may come off when you polish the drum later. You may choose to use a New Replacement Drum instead of the used one.
Note: These drums have been known to run as many as 5 cycles if not damaged.

2.) The most recent cartridges have three torx-head (T10) screws holding the front end cover in place. Remove the screws and work the front end cover off of the end of the drum shaft. Inside remove an indexing plate and pull the drum shaft out through the front of the cartridge.
If your cartridge is one of the older varieties it’s front end cover may be held in place with plastic welds. .You will need to pull the drum shaft out through the back end. Use Channel-Lock Pliers and try not to create any burrs or serious scratches in the shaft. Even earlier versions of the 1012 cartridges had phillips head screws in the front end cover and had an E-Clip and collet on either end of the drum shaft.
3.) Next you will remove the top cover of the cartridge (refer to illustration #1). For the newest variety of cartridge, remove four Torx-Head screws. You may also need to cut the tape seal(s). Release the connector from the back of the cartridge using a tiny flat-head screwdriver. Slide the screwdriver in between the connector and one of the clips from the top and twist. Then repeat on the other side of the connector. The connector will remain connected to the top cover by the ribbon cable for now.
In older cartridges, plastic welds were common. Some used a pair of screws along with clips and/or plastic welds. To get into one of the welded varieties, place the cartridge right-side-up with the back-end facing you. Wedge a Flat-Head Screwdriver under each weld and apply pressure to ‘pop’ the weld (Watch out not to damage the scorotron grid). This should be done with minimal damage to the form of the plastic cover.
1012, 5012, 5014 Copy Cartridge - Rear View
Illustration #1:
Rear view of cartridge

4.) Now for the cleaning phase. First clean the top cover*. On the most recent 1012 cartridges, a plastic actuator is attached to a solid plastic float. When the reclaim compartment becomes full, the actuator rises up into the view window where an electric eye in the copier ‘sees’ it and calls for a new cartridge. Remove the plastic float by releasing the two clips which hold it in. Vacuum the float and top cover thoroughly and follow up with a dust cloth paying particular attention to the ‘window’.
Older cartridges have a flimsier, cellophane contraption attached to the actuator as a float. On the older version be careful not to tear the cellophane when vacuuming. Getting this type of float and window clean is far more time consuming but equally important.
Tip: Toner residue in the window can fool the machine into thinking that it is seeing the actuator and that the reclaim is full. Make sure the window is thoroughly clean.
* 5012/14,5011: the float and window are now non-existent although on earlier 5012/14’s they were present but non-functioning. 5012/14 & 5011’s run for 18,000 copies before the machine goes into a J7 status code calling for a new cartridge.

5.) Next dump the toner from the reclaim compartment into an appropriate disposal container. Vacuum out the reclaim / cleaning section thoroughly and follow up with a dust cloth. Replace the Cleaning Blade... there are two varieties which we refer to as the "New" style & "Old" style. Take a look at the illustration above for a comparison of the two types of blades.
Note: On some versions you may find a styro-foam insert in the reclaim compartment. This serves no real purpose other than to cause the reclaim to fill up quicker. If it comes loose, remove it or else it may get caught in the auger later.

6.) For: 1012 Re-attach the plastic float with the actuator to the top cover. Check for the free motion of the actuator into and out of the window.
6.a) For: 5012/14,5011: Replace the connector (see illustration #2 to understand which pins to solder to).This involves removing a little plastic cover over the solder welds on the back of the connector, desoldering the ribbon cable (two solder joints), and soldering the ribbon cable onto the same two pins on the new connector. If there is tape protecting pins 3,4 & 5, leave it in place. Keep in mind that the connectors for 5011 and the ones for 5012/14 are not interchageable. Do not reinstall the little cover from the back of the old connector.
6.b) To convert cartridges: A 1012 or 5011 cartridge into a 5012/14 requires only that you install a 5012/14 connector in the place of the old one. A 5012/14 can become a 5011 using the 5011 connector. A 1012 can be made into a 5011 but you must remove the window on top of the cartridge (and tape over it) in addition to installing a 5011 connector. Keep in mind that on some cartridges, the model for which they were originally intended is printed on the front end cover.

7.) Set the top cover back in place and re-attach the connector on the back end of the cartridge. Replace the screws in the top cover.
For older cartridges re-weld any plastic welds with an old soldering iron or drill pilot holes and use self-tapping screws.

8.) Next vacuum off the ends of the drum. You may wish to polish the drum (if it is to be reused) with a light application of Drum-Coat Polish (or a similar polish) on a clean polishing sponge. Apply polish evenly in small circular motions. Immediately wipe off drying polish with a new clean sponge, again in small circular motions. Dust the cleaning blade with starting powder liberally. Do not use the Yellow Dust Cloths for this purpose, they may leave an oily residue on drums which creates background on copies which takes a multitude of copies before it will recover.
NOTE: A polished drum may take a few copies to recover also.

9.) Next you’ll replace the drum. First use starter powder on the drum & blade. If your cartridge is one on which you removed the front end cover, you can place the drum in its cradle and slip the drum shaft in from the front (pointy end first) without any serious trouble. Turn the drum to be sure it turns smoothly (again, only turn counter-clockwise if you are looking at the rear end).
If you had to remove the drum shaft through the rear, your job becomes a little more challenging. Peer inside the non-geared end of the drum and see the metal clip which contacts the drum shaft. You will need to sneak the drum shaft past this clip blindly. With the metal clip on the top-side of the drum, lay the drum into its cradle with the geared end to the rear of the cartridge. Now slowly slide the blunt end of the drum shaft into the rear end of the cartridge, elevate the front end of the drum so that you can get the drum shaft to sneak past the metal contact (twirling the shaft as you slide it in may help). Do not use force. If the shaft feels like it is getting hung-up, you will need to start over after using a tool to push the clip back out of the way. Be patient, some are easier than others. Once the shaft is past the clip, press it firmly into place. Turn the drum to be sure it turns smoothly (again, only turn counter-clockwise if you are looking at the geared end).
Note: Check for continuity between the drum shaft and the bare portion of the drum surface. See item #5 in the trouble shooting section. If you do not get continuity, the drum clip is not making contact with the drum shaft.


CONGRATULATIONS! You are done.



SECTION III: TESTING AND SHIPPING

1012 cartridges are best off not being tested if they are going to be shipped. You may get away with a couple of copies but toner reclaim can shake up into the actuator window during shipping and handling if the cartridge is turned on its side or up-side-down. This may cause the machine to think that the reclaim is full and the cartridge is spent. 5012/14,5011 cartridges can be tested but be aware that the machine will blow the first fuse in the cartridge at 100 copies.
When shipping, use styrofoam or cardboard inserts to ensure that nothing comes in contact with the drum. Also, it’s a good idea to put the cartridge in the box with the drum down so that the customer does not grab the drum when removing it from the packaging.


TROUBLE-SHOOTING:

1.) J3 code: "Cartridge not installed" (or not seated properly). Make sure that the cartridge’s drum shaft is fully indexed into the cartridge’s front end cover. If it is sticking out a little too far, you may see a J3 code. There are other possible causes but they are pretty unlikely if the previous cartridge showed no signs of trouble. (could be the main board, could be the connector receptor or a connection in between). In a 5011,5012/14 a J3 code is caused by an open circuit between pin 3 and 6 (see illustration #2)

2.) J8 code: "Wrong cartridge" The 5012/14 machines look across the connection between pins 3 and 6 for 1,500 Ohms resistance, the 5011 machine looks for 15,000 Ohms. (They are not interchangeable). If the cartridge is not seated properly, it will sometimes show a J8. Also, check across pins 3 and 5. If you get no continuity, fuse 2 is blown, this can trigger a J8 code (replace the connector).

3.) J7 code: "End of cartridge life" In a 5012/14 or 5011, J7 is caused by no continuity (blown fuse) across pins 3 and 4. You will need to replace the connector. In a 1012, a J7 is triggered by the plastic actuator in the cartridge rising into the window on top (as the reclaim fills up). This may also be caused by a dirty window, or a dirty sensor. If the cartridge reclaim is filled up but the cartridge only ran a few hundred copies, see the next item on this list.

4.) Cartridge reclaim fills up very fast: Check the inter-image lamp. It is the green strip in the machine above the cartridge which neutralizes the charge on the drum when the exposure lamp is off (in between images). The best way to check this lamp is to open the clam-shell after making a copy. If the drum is coated with toner, the inter-image lamp is not lighting and you should test the lamp. Take note of the number of wires which go to the inter-image lamp.

5.) Very dark copies: Usually caused by a missing drum ground. To ensure that the drum grounding clip is making, test for continuity (see note on item #9 of the procedure).

6.) Lines on copies: If lines are consistant, the cleaning blade isn’t doing its job.

7.) Really weird pattern on copy: If you see the pattern below (or something similar), the scorotron grid is not making contact. Check for continuity between the tab on the end and the grid. Look to be sure that the tab is not deformed or bent upward.
Weird Pattern

1012 style
RECONDITIONING PARTS
1012 style
TECH INFO SHEETS
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