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The Xerox 1012 cartridge is one of the simplest cartridges to recondition. All that is involved is a two step disassembly, thorough cleaning, and reassembly.
Tools you’ll need:
New style vs. Old style Cleaning Blades:
How to receognize the two versions...
SECTION II: PROCEDURE
1.) First check the drum for flaws. Turn the drum counter-clockwise when you are looking at the geared rear end. Look for scuff marks, scratches, or discoloration. Fingerprints and some minor scuff may come off when you polish the drum later. You may choose to use a New Replacement Drum instead of the used one.
2.) The most recent cartridges have three torx-head (T10) screws holding the front end cover in place. Remove the screws and work the front end cover off of the end of the drum shaft. Inside remove an indexing plate and pull the drum shaft out through the front of the cartridge.
4.) Now for the cleaning phase. First clean the top cover*. On the most recent 1012 cartridges, a plastic actuator is attached to a solid plastic float. When the reclaim compartment becomes full, the actuator rises up into the view window where an electric eye in the copier ‘sees’ it and calls for a new cartridge. Remove the plastic float by releasing the two clips which hold it in. Vacuum the float and top cover thoroughly and follow up with a dust cloth paying particular attention to the ‘window’.
Older cartridges have a flimsier, cellophane contraption attached to the actuator as a float. On the older version be careful not to tear the cellophane when vacuuming. Getting this type of float and window clean is far more time consuming but equally important.
Tip: Toner residue in the window can fool the machine into thinking that it is seeing the actuator and that the reclaim is full. Make sure the window is thoroughly clean.
* 5012/14,5011: the float and window are now non-existent although on earlier 5012/14’s they were present but non-functioning. 5012/14 & 5011’s run for 18,000 copies before the machine goes into a J7 status code calling for a new cartridge.
5.) Next dump the toner from the reclaim compartment into an appropriate disposal container. Vacuum out the reclaim / cleaning section thoroughly and follow up with a dust cloth. Replace the Cleaning Blade... there are two varieties which we refer to as the "New" style & "Old" style. Take a look at the illustration above for a comparison of the two types of blades.
6.) For: 1012 Re-attach the plastic float with the actuator to the top cover. Check for the free motion of the actuator into and out of the window.
7.) Set the top cover back in place and re-attach the connector on the back end of the cartridge. Replace the screws in the top cover.
For older cartridges re-weld any plastic welds with an old soldering iron or drill pilot holes and use self-tapping screws.
8.) Next vacuum off the ends of the drum. You may wish to polish the drum (if it is to be reused) with a light application of Drum-Coat Polish (or a similar polish) on a clean polishing sponge. Apply polish evenly in small circular motions. Immediately wipe off drying polish with a new clean sponge, again in small circular motions. Dust the cleaning blade with starting powder liberally. Do not use the Yellow Dust Cloths for this purpose, they may leave an oily residue on drums which creates background on copies which takes a multitude of copies before it will recover.
9.) Next you’ll replace the drum. First use starter powder on the drum & blade. If your cartridge is one on which you removed the front end cover, you can place the drum in its cradle and slip the drum shaft in from the front (pointy end first) without any serious trouble. Turn the drum to be sure it turns smoothly (again, only turn counter-clockwise if you are looking at the rear end).
CONGRATULATIONS! You are done.
1012 cartridges are best off not being tested if they are going to be shipped. You may get away with a couple of copies but toner reclaim can shake up into the actuator window during shipping and handling if the cartridge is turned on its side or up-side-down. This may cause the machine to think that the reclaim is full and the cartridge is spent. 5012/14,5011 cartridges can be tested but be aware that the machine will blow the first fuse in the cartridge at 100 copies.
1.) J3 code: "Cartridge not installed" (or not seated properly). Make sure that the cartridge’s drum shaft is fully indexed into the cartridge’s front end cover. If it is sticking out a little too far, you may see a J3 code. There are other possible causes but they are pretty unlikely if the previous cartridge showed no signs of trouble. (could be the main board, could be the connector receptor or a connection in between). In a 5011,5012/14 a J3 code is caused by an open circuit between pin 3 and 6 (see illustration #2)
2.) J8 code: "Wrong cartridge" The 5012/14 machines look across the connection between pins 3 and 6 for 1,500 Ohms resistance, the 5011 machine looks for 15,000 Ohms. (They are not interchangeable). If the cartridge is not seated properly, it will sometimes show a J8. Also, check across pins 3 and 5. If you get no continuity, fuse 2 is blown, this can trigger a J8 code (replace the connector).
3.) J7 code: "End of cartridge life" In a 5012/14 or 5011, J7 is caused by no continuity (blown fuse) across pins 3 and 4. You will need to replace the connector. In a 1012, a J7 is triggered by the plastic actuator in the cartridge rising into the window on top (as the reclaim fills up). This may also be caused by a dirty window, or a dirty sensor. If the cartridge reclaim is filled up but the cartridge only ran a few hundred copies, see the next item on this list.
4.) Cartridge reclaim fills up very fast: Check the inter-image lamp. It is the green strip in the machine above the cartridge which neutralizes the charge on the drum when the exposure lamp is off (in between images). The best way to check this lamp is to open the clam-shell after making a copy. If the drum is coated with toner, the inter-image lamp is not lighting and you should test the lamp. Take note of the number of wires which go to the inter-image lamp.
5.) Very dark copies: Usually caused by a missing drum ground. To ensure that the drum grounding clip is making, test for continuity (see note on item #9 of the procedure).
6.) Lines on copies: If lines are consistant, the cleaning blade isn’t doing its job.
7.) Really weird pattern on copy: If you see the pattern below (or something similar), the scorotron grid is not making contact. Check for continuity between the tab on the end and the grid. Look to be sure that the tab is not deformed or bent upward.
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