Important: The information presented here is for the use of a qualified, experienced technician. Without the background knowledge which comes with training, you risk doing more damage then good to the copier & also risk your own safety. If you are not willing to take 100% responsibility for your actions, do not use the information posted here. Thank you. Read our conditions of Use for more information.

4110 style - Fuser_Repair_Instructions

4110 style - Fuser_Repair_Instructions

Technical Specifications

Xerox® 4110 style - Fuser Repairs…  Rebuilding the Fuser Modules for the WorkCentre® 4110 / 4112 / 4127 / 4590 / 4595 & D95 / D110 / D125
4110 Fuser Repairs Header 

Now here is a fuser Module you really NEED to sink your teeth into.  In the 4110 style copiers, the techs in the field almost always replace the parts in the fuser as needed.  Replacing the whole Fuser Module is virtually unheard of; and for good reason.  First off the complete fuser retails for well over 2 G’s. It is a serious piece of equipment designed to run for millions of pages with only the consumable pieces needing replacing at intervals.  In this case, the OEM parts are spared (such a rarity these days).  So it will definitely be important to know how to open these up to service them.  We’ll go through the important spared parts, and discuss alternative products which are becoming available.  Also we’ll see how this fuser comes out of the machine, how to crack one open to replace stuff, and finally how to manage and reset counters. 

These guys are kind of refreshing really… most of the important parts are spared and they are actually quite easy to take apart.  The Fuser Heat Roller Assembly (includes the roll, the bearings, 2 drive gears on the rear end). An alternative product which comes in considerably lower is the 4110FHRK which is a kit of a heat roll, 2 bearings and 2 gears (for this option, you’d re-use the existing spacer ring, bushings, & retaining clips).   The Press Roll comes with its heavy metal shaft and the pair of bearings.  Here is a list of some of the more important parts in the fuser along with the OEM part #’s:

604K67480 / 604K24402 - Fuser Heat Roll Assembly (or 4110FHRA Fuser Heat Roll Kit for our Long-Life pd Brand)
059K37001 / 059K69790 – Fuser Press Roll Assembly (order 4110FPR when ordering from us)
130K64321 / 130K64331 / 130K64341 – Thermistors  1/2/ & 3 (4110THR1, 4110THR2, 4110THR3) (We sell a Set of the 3 thermistors under part number: 4110THRK)
008R13085 – Fuser Cleaning Cartridge (Web Ctg) (or 4110FWK for Long Life Web & Pinch Roll to rebuild)
Other spared parts include the Heat and Press Picker finger Assemblies (or the fingers alone if you prefer), also the Thermostats and all 3 Heat Lamps are all available if needed.

See the "Related Parts" below to help find any pieces you need here on our website. 

The most frequently replaced part in the fuser would be the Fuser Cleaning Cartridge (web ctg.).  there are several valid part numbers including 008R13042 / 008R13085 / 008R13000.  These web ctgs retail for around $200.-.  A less expensive alternative is to replace the web only with a good aftermarket product (example 4110FW – Fuser Web).   See photo #1 where you can see how the web material is routed in the web cartridge.  The Cleaning Cartridge is removable by one centrally located screw near the front end  and then release  a single thumb screw near the rear end of the top cleaning ctg.
4110 Fuser Repairs Photo #1

                Now let get into how to remove the fuser from the machine:


CAUTION:  These things get super hot… shut down the machine, open the fuser drawer, and then allow plenty of time for the fuser to cool off before you handle it.

1                     Remove the Duplex Drawer by opening the front door and sliding the Duplex Drawer out.  Release the stoppers found near the center of each rail which when pushed in, will allow the drawer to slide further till you can gently lift the Duplex Module off its rails. 

2                     Push in and turn the green handle marked with a “2” to release the “Marking Drawer”.  The Marking Drawer is the one in which the fuser sits. Slide it out and then release the stoppers found near the center of each rail… Releasing those will allow you slide the Maintenance Drawer further out to the “Maintenance Position”.

3                     Remove the Fuser Cleaning Cartridge from the top of the fuser (1 screw + 1 thumbscrew)

4                     Take off the Front Cover of the Fuser (2 screws and release the front fuser cooling fan connector) (see Photo #2) 
4110 Fuser Repairs Photo #2

5                     Remove the Transfer Belt front cover (2 screws from the front)

6                     Remove the “Pin Support” (2 screws).  This piece is located just to the right of the Marking Drawer Release Handle (a green lever-like handle with the “2” on it) below the fuser.

7                     Now open the “2d” Fuser Upper Chute and swing it up to the left out of the way. 

8                     Be sure the fuser is cool first, then grab the fuser from the top center and lift it out of the Marking Drawer carefully.

9                     NOTE that when reinstalling the fuser, the fuser module has two holes in the bottom which line up with a pair of pins sticking up out of the Marking Drawer.  To re-secure the Pin Support, wait till everything is back together and the Marking Drawer is slid all the way back into the machine with the green “2” lever back to its latched position… and THEN secure the Pin Support.

Now that you have the fuser out of the machine, you can disassemble it… I think you’ll like this.  It’s pretty easy once you know the ropes. 




  1. First take off the Lower Input Chute (2 screws) from the left side of the fuser (see Photo #3)
    4110 Fuser Repairs Photo #3
  2. Remove the Lower Exit Chute (2 screws) from the right side of the fuser (see Photo # 4 & 5)
    4110 Fuser Repairs Photo #4-5
  3. Take off the Press Roll Picker Finger Assembly (2 screws fasten a pair of metal plates to a metal bar) (see Photo #6)
    4110 Fuser Repairs Photo #6
  4. Remove the 3 Fuser Heat Lamps  by disconnecting their connectors at either end (at the rear end there is a Connector Cover which is snapped in place) (pay attention at this point to which ones go where to help make reassembly easier for you later… the two white connectors at the front end can be interchanged without a problem but at the rear end you have to have 1 white, 1 blue and 1 red connector)
  5. Next you will be preparing to open up the “Clam shell” to expose the heat and press rolls.  You must first raise the Upper Exit Chute (a green lever marked “2a” can be found at the front end of this chute which includes the Fuser Exit Sensor and the Heat Roll Picker finger Assembly).  Then you also need to remove one screw from the front end (see Photo #7) and one from the rear end (see Photo #8)
    4110 Fuser Repairs Photo #7-8
  6. Now open the Clam Shell up by pivoting the heat roll half of the fuser up and to your left (if you’re facing the front end of the fuser) till fuser is fully opened up (see Photo #9 for a fully opened Fuser)
    4110 Fuser Repairs Photo #9
  7. Now you can remove the Pressure Roll Assembly out of its cradle (Note at this time how the press roll shaft sits securely in the lever grooves, so  you can return it to the same position at reinstallation).
  8. Next comes the Fuser Heat Roll Assembly… Loosen the screw which keeps the front Heat Roll Stopper Arm in place (see Photo #9)… similarly loosen the screw which keeps the rear stopper arm in place.  Lift both Stopper Arms up and out of the way and you can remove the Fuser Heat Roll from its cradle.
  9. When replacing the Heat Roll it’s a good idea to re-tape the Thermistor Heads with fresh Kapton Tape, or replace the Thermistors entirely.  Note also that the bearings are very important parts in these fusers… often the heat roll bearings will fail far in advance of the heat roll’s surface being worn out.  Fortunately, replacement bearings can be found (4110FHRB). You can also get the Drive Gears if yiou ever need them.  The outer one is 4110FDG1 and the inner yellowish one is 4110FDG2.
    4110 Fuser Repairs Photo #10-11

Now for resetting the counters … To clear the Web count, you will hold down ‘9’ and ‘Stop’ together till the prompt asks if you’ve replaced the Cleaning Cartridge.  Choose ‘Yes” to reset values to ‘0’.  Simple enough most times… but if the machine keeps asking for a web ctg after that,  it may in some cases be necessary to go also into NVM Read / Write and reset code 744-167 back to ‘0’. 

Finally, here is how to manage the HFSI (High Frequency Service Items) counters for the other fuser parts.  First go into Diagnostic Mode by holding down the ‘0’ button for 5 seconds and then, while still holding the ‘0’, press ‘Start’.  A prompt for the “CE Access Number” will show up.  Use the default password ‘6789’ followed by ‘Confirm’. If that does not work, some newer models instead require that you hold down together ‘*’, ‘#’, & ‘Stop’ until the password prompt shows up.  Then use the ‘6789’ default password.  Press ‘Machine Status’ button to see the UI Diagnostic screen… from there, choose ‘System Settings’, then choose ‘Common Settings’, followed by ‘Maintenance / Diagnostics’.  Then look for “HFSI Counters”.  Below is a  quick list of the HFSI (High Frequency Service Item) codes so you’ll know what “chain – link” code to enter:

HFSI Counter Reset codes:
954-841 :  Fuser Heat Roll

954-842 : Fuser Press Roll
954-843 : Heat Roll Fingers
954-844 : Press Roll Fingers
954-845 : Thermistors

That should do the trick!  I hope you enjoy working on these fusers.  Happy repairs folks.

Information Reference

Author: Britt Horvat, with special thanks to Kurt for his expertise and thanks also for support from whole Partsdrop gang. Originally published as an Article in the marvelous ENX Magazine - :)

All rights reserved... you can distribute copies as long as you include a link to the source website: